Natural Wood Coffee Table Coffee Table I'd Like To Restore... How?
Coffee table I'd like to restore... how? - natural wood coffee table
Someone fell off the coffee table in the garbage collection area in my apartment complex ... There is nothing wrong with the wooden structure, everything ... The only what you have tried through the "spray paint and made a very bad one ... The spray paint is stained and dirty right away. I believe it was placed in the dumpster .... I picked it up and want the natural color of the wood is back in the spray paint. I like to sand and stain and put new handles on the drawers ... There were on glass, while the vehicle is, lol broke out when we needed to get a new piece of glass .... But I was wondering if anyone an idea what I do resolve it and had ... What am I in the top drawer, which is visible through the glass to the top? (no sense in the drawer, without knowing why, but what is it? Here is a picture of the table with the upper edge is showing the natural wood color spray paint after scratching:
http://i24.photobucket.com/albums/c27/Ka ...
HimI do not know what you think?
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8 comments:
This image is impressive.
Use a paint remover, then sand and the use of stained wood. I use the drawer as a kind of Shadowbox to display a collection of us (I use it for my collection of Pez dispensers).
This image is impressive.
Use a paint remover, then sand and the use of stained wood. I use the drawer as a kind of Shadowbox to display a collection of us (I use it for my collection of Pez dispensers).
Ok this restoration will not be too difficult, at first a small hand sander and sandpaper for some common areas are obvious. You need to sand the old place and look again. but should work a weekend. The box is a way to prevent weapons such as swords collection of rare books or be shown something of value, but they must all play.
read this
http://search.yahoo.com/search?p=how% 20T ...
I like to draw on the screen, very cool
Hi KC,
Firstly, your photo will be displayed on Photobucket, said: "The video image or moved or deleted."
Of course, difficult to agree on something that I do not see commenting, but I'll try.
She did not say what kind of built coffee table is made of wood, either. If there is a hardwood such as oak, maple, cherry (probably not, since I can not imagine any reasonable person would remember a wooden plank, spray paint) for that not so serious "venial" If you make a mistake conifers. Nothing like grinding with a belt sander should be someone to remain the master with a belt sander.
You mention that is spray painted, and "scratched", but how he infiltrated the grain of the wood? I would venture to guess more than I want to admit it.
KC to pay, depending on the level of quality of work and / or money to it. But here is what I ...
First, cast a look at how the joints are loose. Then9, D divide the table. Working with spare parts is much easier than trying to work with a schedule.
Carefully remove the table apart, glued with an electric screwdriver, wrench, etc., and the application of splices without solvent. Bisket seals, PEG, etc. can be cut and drilled later ... No big deal. Glued tongue-and-spigot, but perhaps a little more complex. Glue and solvents work slowly joints are damaged or are in a vise and use of force raised repeatedly, to separate them.
The surfaces can be chemically dipped in a workshop furniture shopping, for a fee. I recommend this for hardwoods. Pine, beech, other conifers, just go buy home improvements, buy-in stripper and do it yourself.
If the wood and sand must be chemically removed, alone or together with a belt sander or by hand, go with the grain of natural wood. Then, or spots, or cover with a seal of good quality wood. They climb the table with wood glue and clamps and fittings. NoThink they can to blocks of wood between the clamps of metal and wood, or you have bad grades!
The exchange includes drawers an easy task. If the holes do not match, you can zoom in and tap on a dowel, cut, close, then sand and connect with the rest of the room. Glass is also very simple. Measure, and I'm going to cut the thickness you get in the glass shop, they are for you (or set the table for the storage of glass, if not) based on your measurements.
The see-through drawer is a strange situation for me. Hmmm. I think I had a feeling and replace it with another, perhaps a different color, then put a few family heirlooms, jewelry, souvenirs, coins, or you want to select and store, for example on the felt.
Finally, the coffee table with a good varnish. Try a thick marine paint, but be prepared to make a thick dust, as it could take days or weeks to dry to create.
It wassee.
Hope this helps!
-Jeeem --
Nice piece.
It's a cheap way to display the easy part.
Consider Kit conservator. really not a bad way to go.
If it's too far away, with a separator liquid at low prices w / linen and fine steel wool or bronze for the Cleaning.
When I stain my store often or use sandpaper to avoid called life. The reason for this is the right color and retouching requires careful preparation, including the smooth grinding. If cleaning is promising and is satisfied with the color, just clean w / alcohol polish the piece W / fine wool and bronze crumpled paper bag ... really ..
An oil flow is easier to quit as infallible.
You can brush and scrub in W / rags, his hands on and then connect w / pastewax.
Do not be lazy, just think of a smooth surface to show the best job.
Even if your first job does not give you what you want, do not touch anything, and only the preparatory work, if you "repair" a little more
Guess at least $ 25 for all but For retire, and glass.
Best regards
This is a great project! I have some tips and ideas for you!
1. You need a few grains of sand paper. You need to get more aggressive to the finished painting of old and less aggressive and smooth the wood before staining. Your local hardware store you can steer in the right direction. We just tell them what you are doing and help you need.
2. Achieve the best results, use a basic spread. Yes, they are harder to clean, but give you more time to work. And the oil penetrates into the wood and helps to protect better. No brush the stain and leave it a safe way to remove scratches and stains. We apply the oil with a soft, lint-free cloth (old sheets dyed great work) and rub the stain actually hand in the forest. There is a much more natural and does not leak, or fault. Plan enough time to dry!
3. You must apply at the end of the stain. While a product not so good results delivered. Think on the use of tung oil for finishing. It is rugged, durable, and is the Treaty of Nice piece of wood. It comes in satin or gloss, whatever you prefer. The main work of the tung oil is very thin coats with drying time in between. And the best part is applied with a soft, lint-free cloth. We use Formby's. Lowe's, Wal-Mart and Home Depot all have them. The wood absorbs the oil and the first few layers. Just keep with light layers until you look through the surface and see a smooth surface. The wood, you know, when it's finished.
One of the real advantages of tung oil is that it is easy to customize, if you are a scratch. You need to remove sand slightly above and below points of nowhere and feathers a bit more oil and repairing Finish with a coat over the entire surface. If you use anything Poly, you have to put everything on the editing area again.
Repainting my husband of wood as a hobby and became a large number of pieces of debris on some really impressive legacies have little money. Have fun with your project and enjoy!
This is a great project! I have some tips and ideas for you!
1. You need a few grains of sand paper. You need to get more aggressive to the finished painting of old and less aggressive and smooth the wood before staining. Your local hardware store you can steer in the right direction. We just tell them what you are doing and help you need.
2. Achieve the best results, use a basic spread. Yes, they are harder to clean, but give you more time to work. And the oil penetrates into the wood and helps to protect better. No brush the stain and leave it a safe way to remove scratches and stains. We apply the oil with a soft, lint-free cloth (old sheets dyed great work) and rub the stain actually hand in the forest. There is a much more natural and does not leak, or fault. Plan enough time to dry!
3. You must apply at the end of the stain. While a product not so good results delivered. Think on the use of tung oil for finishing. It is rugged, durable, and is the Treaty of Nice piece of wood. It comes in satin or gloss, whatever you prefer. The main work of the tung oil is very thin coats with drying time in between. And the best part is applied with a soft, lint-free cloth. We use Formby's. Lowe's, Wal-Mart and Home Depot all have them. The wood absorbs the oil and the first few layers. Just keep with light layers until you look through the surface and see a smooth surface. The wood, you know, when it's finished.
One of the real advantages of tung oil is that it is easy to customize, if you are a scratch. You need to remove sand slightly above and below points of nowhere and feathers a bit more oil and repairing Finish with a coat over the entire surface. If you use anything Poly, you have to put everything on the editing area again.
Repainting my husband of wood as a hobby and became a large number of pieces of debris on some really impressive legacies have little money. Have fun with your project and enjoy!
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